By Breguet Blog
May 20th, 2025
CHRONOMETER, n. [Gr. Χρονος, time, and Μετρον, measure.] Any instrument that measures time or that divides time into equal portions, or that is used for that purpose, as a clock, watch or dial; particularly an instrument that measures time with great exactness.
—Noah Webster’s An American Dictionary of the English Language (1828)
TI’ME-KEEPER, n. [time and keeper.] A clock, watch or other chronometer.
TI’ME-PIECE, n. [time and piece.] A clock, watch or other instrument to measure or show the progress of time; a chronometer.
BREGUET’S TYPE XXII 10 Hz FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH1 constitutes an aviation powerhouse on the wrist: a high concept, state-of-the art pilot’s watch with breakthrough technology from the Maison’s workbench in the village of L’Orient in the heart of the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.
The genesis of Breguet’s ‘Types’ can be traced to 1949 when the Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV or Flight Test Centre), a subdivision of the French Air Ministry, purchased its first Breguet chronographs. Breguet’s archives record the sale of two wristwatches: no. 460 purchased on 14th January and no. 456 purchased on 8th March 1949. These modest sales were followed by nos. 457 and 458 – all four without flyback function. Next came a series of six chronographs, nos. 409-414, which were sold to private buyers between September 1949 and May 1950 – all with the new flyback function as noted in the archives: “retour à zéro and reset of chrono with a single push” (Breguet: Type XX, Montres Breguet SA (2022) p. 15).
A steady stream of sales continued until 1953 when Breguet’s archives first recorded a ‘Type 20’ wristwatch, with nos. 1530, 1531 and 1532 all sold that same year. The recorded description is as follows:
Type 20 wristwatch – 14 lines – chronograph with two pushpieces and special retour à zéro function and restart with a single push – 30-minute counter, second hand, black dial, luminescent hours and hands. Water-resistant stainless-steel case – rotating bezel, leather strap.
—Breguet: Type XX, Montres Breguet SA (2022) p. 17
The origin of the designation ‘Type 20’ or ‘Type XX’ is not certain. Both the Arabic and Roman conventions were used interchangeably at times though the specified underlying functions – chronograph with a return to zero or flyback function – remained the same. The name has sometimes been referred to as the original contract number; or relating to a special aircraft, such as the Breguet 19, as a tribute to the watches’ status as a pilot’s chronograph or the Breguet Type XX aircraft, both of which were built in the early 1920s.
The point is moot, considering that these wristwatches were commissioned to meet military specifications (MIL-SPEC). In-house records generally refer to military models as Type 20 and civilian models as Type XX. That distinction dovetails with defence standards which commonly denote strict criteria, often leading to the prefix ‘Type’ where model numbers are concerned. For example, aviation pioneer and aircraft designer, Louis Breguet (1880-1955), great-grandson of Abraham-Louis, named his early aircrafts Breguet Type I (1909) through Breguet Type IV (1911) respectively. The Roman numerals were exchanged for Arabic numerals in 1914, but the logic behind the nomenclature is clear.
Birth of an Icon
In 1954, Breguet was awarded contract no. 5101/54, a turning point in the evolution of pilot’s chronographs commissioned by the French Air Force. A year prior, Breguet had received official approval from the Service Technique Aéronautique after a series of tests which determined that Breguet’s watchmakers met military standards. The Maison produced no fewer than 1,100 Type 20s, 980 of which were supplied between November 1954 and 31st July 1957. The remaining pieces were delivered between 1958-1959.
These seminal Type 20s, also referred to as first-generation ‘Armée de l’Air’ or ‘Type 20 militaire’ chronographs, ref. 7211, exhibit remarkably understated features: a bidirectional, ungraduated bezel with triangular-shaped luminescent marker at 12 o’clock, unsigned dial (black), Arabic numerals (sans-serif), outer minutes and seconds track, two registers with 60 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock and 30-minute totaliser at 3 o’clock, luminescent hour, minute and large chronograph hand at centre. A fluted pear- or onion-shaped winding crown meant the watch could be operated using a gloved hand – a practical solution for pilots in particular.
The watch was equipped with a 14-line Valjoux 222 column-wheel movement with a beat rate of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph). The watch had a power reserve of 35 hours and ‘retour en vol’ or flyback function secured in a 38.3mm diameter steel case. The watches were water-resistant with a screw-down case back, bearing the official inscription: BREGUET – TYPE 20 – 5101/54, inscribed with an individual Breguet number. These watches are an outstanding aesthetic as well as technical achievement and a purist’s dream. The minimalist dial is pared down to essentials making this Type 20 one of the earliest tool watches destined for actual use in the field.
Early Achievements
The all-important contract no. 5101/54 broke the glass ceiling: Breguet’s Type 20 now reached cruising altitude. While this contract was being filled a number of additional milestones occurred during Breguet’s work for the Ministry of Defence:
- Type XX – May 1955, ref. 1888, marked the first appearance of a ‘civilian’ chronograph; a “three-register” chronograph powered by a Valjoux 225 14-line movement with flyback function exhibiting three sub-dials: 15-minute totaliser or ‘Big Eye’ at 3 o’clock, 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock, 60 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock on a black dial with bidirectional graduated 12-hour bezel and luminescent ‘Dauphine’ hour and minute hands.
- Type XX CEV (Centre d’Essais en Vol) – late 1956, ref. 2499, a seminal moment as the Flight Test Centre officially adopted the Type XX as the operational watch of choice. The watches were numbered and inscribed CEV 1-80 on the case back and divided into two lots: 50 pieces supplied as three-register chronographs, per ref. 1888 above, powered by a Valjoux 225 14-line movement with flyback function; 30 pieces supplied as two register chronographs powered by a Valjoux 222 14-line movement with flyback function and 15-minute totaliser or Big Eye at 3 o’clock; both versions with bidirectional graduated 12-hour bezel and luminescent ‘Syringe’ hour and minute hands. CEV 1 is particularly noteworthy as it was the only model with a handsome brown dial (three registers) which was presented to the director of the CEV.
- Type XX Aéronautique Navale – 1958, ref. 4100, an important commission from the French Naval Air Force. 500 pieces were made and numbered from 3927 to 4427 with an additional number 1-500. This model was powered by a Valjoux 222 14-line movement with flyback function and two sub-dials: 15-minute totaliser or Big Eye at 3 o’clock and 60 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock on a black dial with bidirectional ungraduated bezel, triangular-shaped luminescent index, luminescent ‘Pencil’ hour and minute hands and a pear-shaped winding crown.2
- Type XX Second Generation – 1971-1986, a more edgy, contemporaneous and slightly larger version in a 40mm case. The case was polished rather than brushed and sported broad, thicker, angled lugs. 770 pieces were made and sold. 406 pieces were three-register chronographs equipped with 15-minute and 12-hour totalisers powered by a new Valjoux 13-line 720 movement with flyback function; 364 were two register chronographs with 15-minute totaliser only powered by a Valjoux 13-line 230 movement with flyback function. These models were presented with a black dial, black bidirectional graduated bezel, triangular-shaped luminescent index, luminescent Syringe hour and minute hands and a knurled, straight winding crown decorated with a fine grid pattern. A notable deviation among the second generation is that some three-register versions were made with a 60-minute bezel with luminescent index and some with a rather attractive “world time” bezel indexing a slew of major cities around the world (these models did not come with a triangular-shaped luminescent index); the two register versions were also made with a 60-minute bezel with luminescent index but some were issued with a tachymeter. Some models were sold on a distinctive, polished bracelet with holes. Each model bore the individual Breguet number on the case back.
- Type XX Third Generation – 1995-2010, after a hiatus of almost a decade, Breguet launched two new models, the Aéronavale (ref. 3800) in 1995 and the Transatlantique (ref. 3820) in 1997, both in a 39mm case. Both models were three-register chronographs powered by a 13¾-line calibre 582 movement with flyback function (ref. 3800) and 13¾-line calibre 582Q movement with flyback function (ref. 3820), the latter with date function. All models had unidirectional graduated 60-minute bezel, triangular-shaped luminescent index, luminescent Pencil hour and minute hands and a knurled, straight winding crown. A distinguishing feature of the third generation is that both models were finished with Breguet’s famous ‘fluted’ case band (coin-edging). The majority were made in stainless steel but a number of smaller releases were in grey gold, rose gold, yellow gold, titanium and platinum.
The first 2,000 pieces of the Aéronavale in steel were distinguished by a gold-topped winding crown to celebrate the new generation of flyback chronographs. Between 1999-2001 Breguet offered a small number of Transatlantique travel watches, ref. 3860, the Type XX Réveil alarm watch with date aperture at 6 o’clock (made in steel and yellow gold). In the years 2000-2001, Breguet further produced a smaller number of Transatlantique Ladies’ Type XX flyback chronographs in stainless steel, refs. 4820 as a standard model and 4821 with a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond-set bezel. In 2010, Breguet capped the third generation with an attractive, limited edition of the Aéronavale to celebrate the centenary of the French Naval Air Force. A handsome nod to the original Aéronautique Navale, ref. 3803ST was limited to 1,000 pieces. Three registers on a black dial, black-lacquered bidirectional 60-minute, graduated bezel with triangular-shaped luminescent index, luminescent Pencil hour and minute hands and a pear-shaped winding crown, all on a fine calf-leather strap. The Aéronavale Centenary Edition sold out in record time. - Type XXI – 2004 Basel Watch Fair, ref. 3810, marked a turning point in the revival of the Type watches. In response to a growing demand for larger watches, Breguet conceived of a recalibrated tool watch for pilot and civilian use. A cleaner dial and reconfigured three-register flyback chronograph powered by a 13½-line calibre 584Q movement housed in a generously sized 42mm case. The Type XXI heralded a step in the direction of the Type XXII that was to come. For the first time, Breguet’s Types offered a more utilitarian take on the historic Transatlantique, thanks to its revised layout: Breguet cursive script at 12 o’clock and underneath, ‘retour en vol,’ AM/PM indicator at 3 o’clock, 12-hour totaliser and date aperture at 6 o’clock, small 60 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, 60-minute bidirectional graduated bezel, triangular-shaped luminescent index, luminescent Pencil hour and minute hands and a knurled, straight winding crown. The real coup lay in the fact that the chronograph minute-hand was relocated from a smaller sub-dial to the centre axis via a centrally located 60-minute totaliser and sweep seconds, using the outer chapter ring for an optimised read-out. The Type XXI was presented in steel (ref. 3810ST), rose gold (ref. 3810BR) and titanium (ref. 3810TI) on either a leather strap or full bracelet.
- Type XXI Ultimate Versions – 2018-2021, saw the release of the final versions of Breguet’s Type XXI. In 2018, ref. 3817 was presented in stainless steel and rose gold with the addition of a transparent sapphire case back and lavishly engraved winding mass in 18-carat yellow gold. The steel version sported a slate-grey dial and the gold version a rich black dial. Large, luminescent Arab numerals with excellent readability adorn both dials. A special series of twenty featuring a khaki-coloured dial was released for the Italian market (ref. 3817ST ZL 3ZU). Ref. 3817 is a three-register flyback chronograph powered by a 13½-line calibre 584Q/2 movement in a 42mm fluted case. The three registers have the same features and layout as ref. 3810 above: the flyback chronograph emanates from the centre axis via a centrally located 60-minute totaliser and sweep seconds, using the outer chapter ring for an optimised read-out. Ref. 3817 has a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vph), 26 jewels and a 48-hour power reserve. In 2021, ref. 3815TI was presented in titanium: a limited release of 500 final examples.
Two versions were released in orange (ref. 3815TI HO 3ZU) or green (ref. 3815TI HM 3ZU) with luminescent hands, Arab numerals and hour-markers on a black dial, in a limited edition of 250 pieces each, numbered from 1/250 to 250/250. The dial was pared down and the Transatlantique, 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock, was dropped in favour of a date-only function and leaner dial graduated to 1/5th of a second culminating in a 60-minute flyback chronograph. The 60-minute bidirectional graduated bezel and triangular-shaped luminescent index in corresponding orange or green is otherwise identical to ref. 3810TI. A two register flyback chronograph with Breguet cursive script at 12 o’clock and underneath, ‘retour en vol,’ AM/PM indicator at 3 o’clock, date aperture at 6 o’clock, and small 60 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Ref. 3815TI is powered by a 13½-line calibre 584Q/A 4 Hz (28,800 vph) movement with 26 jewels and engraved winding mass in 18-carat white gold. 48-hour power reserve in a 42mm fluted case. All models adjusted to six positions and presented on a fine calf-leather strap. - Type XX Fourth Generation – 2023, heralds the new generation from the august Maison. Hints of the fourth generation emerged with the Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 20193 (ref. 2055ST/Z5/398), for charity, a no-date, two register flyback chronograph with Pencil hands and plain bezel in stainless steel infused with the spirit of the first generation; and, the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 20214 (ref. 2065ST/Z5/398), a no-date, two register Big Eye flyback chronograph with Syringe hands in stainless steel with a 12-hour bezel. Demand for a return to a more vintage look was finally satisfied with the highly anticipated release of three new models so far: the Type 20 ref. 2057ST with a bidirectional, ungraduated polished steel bezel with triangular-shaped luminescent marker at 12 o’clock, signed dial (black), Arabic numerals (sans-serif), outer minutes and seconds track, two registers with Big Eye 30-minute totaliser at 3 o’clock and 60 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, date between 4 and 5 o’clock and a green luminescent hour, minute and large chronograph hand at centre. Ref. 2057ST is powered by a 14½-line calibre 7281 5 Hz movement with an impressive 60-hour power reserve, housed in a 42mm satin-finished case.
Complimenting this watch is the Type XX ref. 2067ST, a three-register flyback chronograph with a bidirectional, graduated 12-hour polished steel bezel with triangular-shaped luminescent marker at 12 o’clock, signed dial (black), Arabic numerals (sans-serif), outer minutes and seconds track, a Big Eye 15-minute totaliser at 3 o’clock, Transatlantique 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock and 60 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, date between 4 and 5 o’clock and an ivory luminescent hour, minute and large chronograph hand at centre. Ref. 2067ST is similarly powered by a 14½-line calibre 728 5 Hz movement with a 60-hour power reserve, housed in a 42mm satin-finished case. Both models are available with interchangeable calf straps, NATO straps and full steel bracelets. The fourth generation was celebrated with a novelty, the Type XX Chronographe 2067 (ref. 2067RK/Y9/9WU) in rose gold with three registers, exquisitely finished on a sunburst blue dial with a matching blue inlaid bezel. The dial is graduated to 1/5th of a second and the watch is powered by the same 14½-line calibre 728 5 Hz movement with a 60-hour power reserve, housed in a 42mm satin-finished case, delivered on a blue leather and NATO strap. All three models have open case backs and feature a blackened gold oscillating weight inscribed BREGUET.
High Frequency, High Altitude
The Maison’s research and development into high-frequency escapements bore fruit when Breguet’s Type XXII 10 Hz prototype was unveiled at the 2010 Basel Watch Fair. It was the culmination of years of R&D by the manufacture and resulted in one model, ref. 3880, the first and only mechanical chronograph with a 10 Hz frequency made in series. The Type XXII was offered in stainless steel initially and rose gold in 2013 with a choice of leather straps or full bracelets. In typical Breguet fashion, the watch was accompanied by little fanfare and has flown under the radar since its debut in 2010 until it finally sold out last year. The watch deserves closer examination being a rare example of a prototype that left the Breguet workshop and returned for one more overhaul before being distributed to boutiques. In short, this is a concept watch that made it to market, an unusual occurrence given the great cost of R&D. It is a pathway generally associated with the development of movements only as manufactures try to avoid having to redesign the entire watch and case to fit the movement. The same dedication led to the creation of Breguet’s Classique Chronométrie ref. 7727 10 Hz in 2013, an ultra-thin dress watch that has become part of the Classique collection.
Mechanical clocks and watches all have one thing in common: a heartbeat. This is usually referred to as beats per hour (bph), Hertz (Hz), or vibrations per hour (vph). On rare occasions it is known as the train count. This is a result of the spring which causes the balance to oscillate at a given frequency. Most wristwatches commonly tick at 4 Hz (28,800 vph) or 3 Hz (21,600 vph). A few watches, including some grand complications, beat at a slower rate of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph), Breguet’s Héritage Tourbillon 5497, for example.
The first serial movement beating at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 vph) was Zenith’s El Primero, launched in 1969. It boasted a power reserve of 50 hours.
The majority of self-winding or manual movements average a beat rate of 3-4 Hz. Manufactures or retailers often elect any one of the three major descriptions of a movement’s beat rate: bph, Hz, or vph. All of which are correct and it is simply a matter of preference which is used.
Breguet achieved a world first with the release of its Type XXII, a dual time 60-minute flyback chronograph beating at 10 Hz (72,000 vph) for timekeeping as well as the chronograph. The higher beat-rate or frequency refers to an increased vibration or oscillation of the escapement. The purpose is to minimise the effect of perturbation on the timekeeping of the watch, increasing its accuracy. A higher frequency also acts as a shock absorber because it allows the watch to correct itself and return to its median beat rate much faster and with greater precision. This stabilises the momentum of the movement but optimum performance is subject to regular winding and servicing of the watch.
The Type XXII was followed by the aforementioned Classique Chronométrie 7727 which won the coveted 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.5 Ref. 7727 introduced a novelty to the world of watchmaking in the form of Breguet’s magnetic pivot, an invention by Breguet that allows the balance staff, which holds the balance, to be held in part-suspension between two powerful micro-magnets. The magnetic pivot consists of a carbon-steel balance staff and a rare-earth magnet behind each end-stone. One of the magnets is stronger than the other so that the balance staff is in permanent contact with the end-stone on the dial side. The balance thus appears suspended between two end-stones supporting the balance pivots, automatically acting as a shock absorber by adjusting and re-centering in response to any blows or impact. Breguet received its well-deserved patent for this truly revolutionary design on 9th November 2010.
A hallmark of high-frequency watches is that the seconds hand is visibly much smoother as it traverses the dial, but the power consumption is correspondingly high and these watches must be wound, or worn, regularly.6
Silicon Soul
Breguet’s Type XXII does not come with a magnetic pivot but by no means is this an indicator that the timekeeping and chronograph are anything less than exceptional. It is important to stress that the new in-house 13¼-line calibre 589 F has been custom-made for ref. 3880 with its high-frequency movement designed to enhance the accuracy of the chronograph. Therefore this is not a staple movement sold or transferred to other watches. That fact alone demonstrates a full commitment on the part of the manufacture to developing a truly unique watch. Both movement and case have been conceived to achieve a holistic balance and to satisfy the requirements of a diverse tool watch with flyback capabilities.
One of the most remarkable achievements of the calibre 589 F movement lies in its use of pioneering silicon technology. In 2006, Breguet once again achieved a major breakthrough with the development of silicon parts in watchmaking. Silicon is impervious to magnetism and highly resistant to corrosion and wear. It reduces inertia, is lighter and harder than steel, and Breguet uses a special thermal oxidation process to make silicon resistant to the effects of temperature. Silicon requires no additional lubricant, save for the jewels on the pallet fork, and minute parts can be manufactured to stricter tolerances and replaced where necessary.7
The interaction between the moving parts of a watch ultimately has the most significant impact on its good time keeping. Traditionally, the use of oil on these parts determined the functioning of the relationship between one part and another and how this affects the overall performance of the timepiece. In the time of Abraham-Louis Breguet the oils that he had to work with were of natural origins, extracted from vegetable or animal. These natural oils were extremely difficult to work with and Breguet is known to have said “give me the perfect oil and I will give you the perfect watch” illustrating that the master understood the limitations of the natural oils available at the time. This makes his triumphs of horological genius all the more awe-inspiring.
Today watchmakers use a number of highly sophisticated lubricants derived from silicon to lubricate the different parts of a watch to the manufacturer’s specifications. These oils are highly advanced and offer a range of different viscosities in small incremental variations. The invention of silicon oils and the improvement in manufacturing accuracy have led to the mechanical wristwatch of today being in essence better time-keepers with chronometers accurate to +6 ~ -4 seconds a day. However, the common practice of using oil in all mechanical watches becomes an issue with high-frequency movements as the parts move so quickly. The oil applied by the watchmaker during assembly is displaced by the centrifugal forces generated by the speed at which the parts move. Once the oil leaves the active plane of the part, it leaches what is left and the watch very quickly loses accuracy. Therefore, it is impossible to make a high frequency watch that works reliably in the traditional way. The advent of the silicon escape wheel together with Breguet’s design and manufacture has allowed his engineers to create a high frequency watch movement running at the rate of 10 Hz that works with great precision and reliability. The advent of silicon use – a new space age material that had come out of Breguet’s R&D department – presented new opportunities to push the boundaries of what was possible in mechanical watchmaking.
The Type XXII represents the pinnacle of what this new technology has achieved: the first full production wristwatch running at dizzying speed and the most accurate production, mechanical chronograph in the world which can time to the nearest 20th of a second. A true marvel of modern horological achievement and an accomplishment that would have made Abraham-Louis Breguet immensely proud.
Thus the raison d’être of Breguet’s Type XXII is that the movement drives the entire watch using a high-frequency silicon escapement, lever and Breguet balance-wheel with regulating screws and silicon-balance spring. This novelty allows the escapement to power the GMT, dual-time, date display and flyback chronograph – all at 10 Hz. A tremendous feat coupled with the 40-hour power reserve. The oscillating wheel is made of heavy metal and crowned with a red silicon latticework as a counterpoint to its blue silicon counterparts and dial. It is visible through the viewing port on the case back. The theme of red, white and black is a prominent feature of the stainless steel edition of this watch with luminous hands and Arabic numerals (sans-serif), whereas the rose gold edition sports a brown dial and brushed Arabic numerals in rose gold (ref. 3880BR has luminous hands, hour markers and sub-dial showing the second time zone).
The colour scheme extends to the large, red chronograph seconds hand at centre which exhibits a grand sweep that is pleasing to the eye and accurate to 1/20th of a second. A red, diamond-tipped hand tracks the minutes clocked up by the chronograph seconds hand. This action can be better observed in the video below!
A Racing Machine for the Skies
The superlative speed and performance of the Type XXII would not have been possible without Breguet’s latest innovations in silicon technology. Breguet’s watchmakers did not shy away from combining such advances in filigree part-making with all the possibilities of a versatile pilot’s watch: a date, dual-time, 60-minute flyback chronograph and stopwatch running at 10 Hz packaged into a large but ergonomically designed 44mm by 18.05mm case. But the real gift is the capability of the movement which is as exhaustive as any GMT-watch: ref. 3880 has a quick-set hour hand, quick-set date and stop-seconds for maximum accuracy when setting the watch.
The dial offers a high degree of readability as it merges with Breguet’s cursive script below 12 o’clock and underneath, ‘retour en vol’ and ’10 Hz’ in red, followed by a 24-hour AM/PM indicator at 3 o’clock, 12-hour second time zone and date aperture at 6 o’clock, small 30 seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock which rotates twice every 60 seconds, 60-minute bidirectional graduated bezel, triangular-shaped luminescent index, luminescent Pencil hour and minute hands capped by a traditional pear-shaped winding crown. Overall the dial also benefits from excellent green luminescence that retains its strength during low or no light.
The chronograph buttons are deftly integrated into Breguet’s customary fluted case. The start/stop and flyback/reset buttons at 2 and 4 o’clock respectively are crisp to operate. Press the button at 2 o’clock to start or stop the red chronograph hand at centre; press the flyback/reset button and release it in order to engage the flyback function and automatically reset and run the chronograph from the top or reset the chronograph altogether using the stop function at 2 o’clock. The flyback/reset button is also slightly larger and decorated with two red stripes, providing a hallmarked look and feel to the watch.
The Type XXII is a remarkably comprehensive tool watch, at once adroit and urbane. Dexterity and interaction blend seamlessly with its 10 Hz and GMT function, making this watch a pleasure to use in the skies or on the ground. Breguet’s Type XXII is a fitting tribute to the age of flight, here embodied in an aesthetically pleasing chronograph that celebrates aviation and timekeeping. The stainless steel edition embodies stealth and practicality, while the rose gold edition signifies ultimate luxury. A true concept watch with military specs, Breguet’s Type XXII has not been equalled or copied since.
Description
Type XXII flyback chronograph in steel with seconds hands on a 30-second basis at the centre. Half-minute totaliser at the centre. High-frequency escapement (10 Hz) composed of a Breguet balance wheel with timing screws, a balance spring, a lever and escape wheel in silicon. Self-winding movement with date and small seconds on a 30-second basis. 24-hour indicator and second time zone indicator. Two-way rotating and graduated bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar (100m). Partial sapphire case back. Diameter: 44mm. Also in rose gold. Available on calf or alligator leather strap, steel or rose gold bracelet with brushed steel centre links and deployant clasp.
User Guide – Ref. 3880
“TYPE XXII” CHRONOGRAPH, 10 Hz FREQUENCY, FLYBACK, DOUBLE TIME ZONE, DATE, AUTOMATIC REWINDING, WATER-RESISTANT TO 10 BAR (100 M)
The following extract from the user manual gives a good overview of the prowess of the Type XXII. User text and images courtesy of Montres Breguet SA.
Example A: 53 min 28 sec 3/10, Example B: 3 min 33 sec 8/10.
Reading the time measured by the chronograph:
1. Reading the minutes
Minutes are indicated by the hand of the minute counter M60 on the “BASE 60” inside scale B60.
2. Reading the seconds
Seconds are indicated by the seconds hand S30 on the “BASE 30” outside scale B30 (05/35, 10/40, 15/45, 20/50…). Since the S30 hand completes one revolution in 30 seconds, first check the minutes hand M60 on the B60 scale to see if the seconds being counted are between 0-30 (M60 hand on the red section) or between 30-60 (M60 hand on the white section). Using this information, read the seconds hand S30 on the B30 scale (each large red marker represents one second and each small white marker represents 1/10th second).
Chronograph functions:
Push-piece I: starts and stops chronograph. One press on push-piece I starts the chronograph function: the 2 chronograph hands start to turn indicating 30 seconds per revolution S30 and 60 minutes per revolution M60. A second press on push-piece I stops the chronograph hands for reading the timing or for dead time. A third press on push-piece I restarts the function without resetting to zero.
Push-piece II: resetting the chronograph to zero. Pressing push-piece II resets the chronograph hands to zero. If this is done after the watch has been stopped by pressing push-piece I, the hands are reset to the starting position. If it is done when the chronograph is running, the hands return to the starting position and, when push-piece II is released, immediately begin another timing (flyback function).
The crown has four positions:
1. Screwed in
2. Manual rewinding
3. Correction of time zone and date
4. Time-setting (reference time)
Set the watch by unscrewing the crown (anti-clockwise) and pulling it to position 2. Gently make 30-35 full turns of the crown to give sufficient energy to the mechanism and allow the automatic system to complete the rewinding.
Setting the time and indexing the time zone:
Unscrew the crown (anti-clockwise) and pull it to position 4. Turn the crown clockwise to advance the minute hand, the HR hand and the H24 hand to the required time (reference time). To set the time precisely, the hands must be adjusted by advancing clockwise. Then push the crown back to position 2.
Pull the crown out to position 3 and change the hour hand of the central time zone HF, activating the date change (morning or evening, AM or PM), until the local time is reached. This correction is made in one hour jumps. This operation does not affect the reference time. Push the crown to position 2 and screw it into position 1 by turning it clockwise.
Using the time zone when travelling:
The time zone function allows the central time display HF to be changed without altering the reference time (the HR and H24 hands). The date D remains indexed to the time displayed in the centre HF.
To change the time zone, unscrew the crown by turning it anti-clockwise, then pull it out to position 3. Move the central hand HF forward or backwards with a jump of one hour for each time zone. Push the crown to position 2 and screw it into position 1 by turning it clockwise.
Correcting the date:
To change the date D, unscrew the crown by turning it anti-clockwise, then pull it to position 3. Change the time HF in one-hour jumps forward or backwards until the desired date is displayed. This operation does not alter the reference time HR. Push the crown into position 2 and screw it into position 1 by turning it clockwise.
Note:
If the time is changed while the chronograph is running, the timing operation will be affected.
HF – Time-zone time
S30 – 30 seconds indication (B30 scale)
M60 – 60 minutes indication (B60 scale)
H24 – 24-hour indication linked to the reference time
HR – Reference time
D – Date indexed to the time-zone time
PS – Small seconds
Important note:
This chronograph is guaranteed water-resistant to 10 bar (100 m), provided that the crown is in position 1 (screwed in).
Type XXII 3880 Technical Specifications
Movement
Winding: Self-winding
Power reserve: 40 hrs
Calibre: 589 F
Lines: 13¼
Jewels: 28
Frequency: 72,000 vph (10 Hz)
Balance-wheel: Breguet
Escapement: Swiss straight-line lever/Silicon
Balance-spring: Flat/Silicon
Oscillating weight: Heavy metal (Métal lourd)
Number of components: 363
Adjusted to six (6) positions
Case
Metal: Stainless steel or rose gold
Skeleton: No
Sapphire case back: Partial
Case shape: Round
Diameter: 44mm
Case thickness: 18.05mm
Water-resistant: 10 bar (100 m)
Models (illustrated for all four models as the Type XXII has now been discontinued)
3880ST/H2/3XV (Stainless steel) on a calf strap
£ 17,500.00 *
* Recommended retail price (incl. VAT)
3880ST/H2/SX0 (Stainless steel) on steel bracelet
£ 18,800.00 *
* Recommended retail price (incl. VAT)
3880BR/Z2/9XV (Rose gold) on alligator strap
£ 30,800.00 *
* Recommended retail price (incl. VAT)
3880BR/Z2/RXV (Rose gold) on rose gold bracelet
£ 48,200.00 *
* Recommended retail price (incl. VAT)
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank Montres Breguet SA and Mr Stuart Kerr, past Boutique Manager of Breguet London, for showing us the ‘Type’ collection and Type XXII models in particular.
All photographs and the video in this article are from Montres Breguet SA and used by kind permission of the company.
Notes
All URLs correct at time of publication.
1 In Ancient Greek, the word ‘chronograph’ breaks down thus: Χρόνος (chrónos, ‘time’) and γράφω (gráfo, ‘to write’), literally ‘time-writer’. The following definition may be helpful as an addendum to the Greek:
chron•o•graph, n. 1. a timepiece fitted with a recording device, as a stylus and rotating drum, used to mark the exact instant of an occurrence, esp. in astronomy. 2. a timepiece capable of measuring extremely brief intervals of time accurately, as a stopwatch able to record fractions of a second as well as elapsed time. [1655-65; CHRONO- + -GRAPH]
—Random House Unabridged Dictionary, 2nd ed., newly rev. and updated, New York: Random House (1993). ISBN 0-679-42917-4.
2 1,100 examples of the Type 20 were supplied to the French Air Force while 500 examples of the Type XX were supplied to the French Navy for the Naval Air Force. The HABSBURG Antiquorum catalogue (1991) offers the following observation in regard to the most seldom examples of the military ‘Type’ chronographs:
Note: The last model of the Breguet Type 20 wristwatch, and the rarest, were those made for the CEV (Centre d’Essai en Vol). This centre, responsible for the testing and homologation of all new aeroplanes, was supplied with all models of the Breguet chronograph, both Marine and Aviation types, differing only in the marks stamped on the back: CEV followed by a number below 500 indicating that no more than 500 of each series was supplied to the service. At the same time, the CEV also received the most complicated of all the French Military watches: the “Three register” Breguet chronograph, developed from the Navy model, with both 15 minute and 12 hour registers, as well as a continuous subsidiary seconds. An additional feature was the adjustable bezel graduated for 12 hours. For an explanation of the retour en vol (instantaneous fly-back) refer to the note for the Type 20 5101/54 Armée de l’Air. [p. 382]
The title retour en vol, refers to the instantaneous fly-back feature of the chronograph work. A single push on the lower chronograph button, zero’s the chronograph hand whilst still in motion, which then restarts immediately. Avoiding the need for a pilot to break concentration from the controls of the plane. [p. 386]
—HABSBURG Antiquorum, THE ART OF BREGUET: An Important Collection of 204 Watches, Clocks and Wristwatches (1991)
3 For the Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 (ref. 2055ST/Z5/398), see: https://www.breguet.com/en/news/breguet-contributes-success-only-watch-charity-auction.
4 For the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 (ref. 2065ST/Z5/398), see: https://www.breguet.com/en/news/record-sale-breguet-type-xx-only-watch-2021.
5 For the Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, see: https://www.gphg.org/en/watches/classique-chronometrie.
6 Louis Moinet (1768–1853), inventor of the chronograph, is the undisputed king of the high-frequency escapement with the creation of his “compteur de tierces” (counter of thirds). This chronograph was started in 1815 and completed in 1816, running at an astonishing 30 Hz or 216,000 vph. The watch survives to this day and is accurate to 1/60th of a second. It has an exceptional power reserve of 30 hours. Fittingly, Moinet was both a friend and contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823).
7 In 2006, Breguet led an alliance which heralded a mainstream silicon revolution: Breguet, Patek Philippe, and Rolex jointly drew on the resources of Neuchâtel’s Centre of Swiss Electronics and Microtechnology. And while Ulysse Nardin debuted its Freak wristwatches in 2001 with silicon components, it was not until 2006 that the great manufactures adopted the widespread use of silicon successfully in the manufacture of precision escapements. As covered in this article, Breguet developed the Type XXII 10 Hz with a silicon escape-wheel, lever and flat balance spring, which debuted in stainless steel in 2010 and rose gold in 2013 together with the Classique Chronométrie 7727 (available in rose and white gold 18K).
Bibliography
BREGUET, Emmanuel, Breguet: A Century of Aviation, France: Éditions Privat (2018). ISBN 978-2-7089-9286-3.
BREGUET, Emmanuel, Breguet: Art and Innovation in Watchmaking, USA: Prestel (2015). ISBN 978-3791354675.
BREGUET, Emmanuel, Breguet: Type XX, Montres Breguet SA (2022). Limited edition hardback produced for boutiques. © Montres Breguet SA 2022.
BREGUET, Emmanuel, Breguet: Watchmakers since 1775, The life and legacy of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), China: Swan éditeur (2016). ISBN 978-2-9536796 8-7.
HABSBURG Antiquorum, THE ART OF BREGUET: An Important Collection of 204 Watches, Clocks and Wristwatches, GENEVA, HOTEL DES BERGUES, SUNDAY 14 APRIL 1991, Switzerland: Schudeldruck, 4125 Riehen (1991). ISBN 3-85895-911-1.
KINGSTON, Jeffrey S., The New Frontier: 10 Hertz, Le Quai de l’Horloge, Nº 1: pp. 40-51, Montres Breguet SA (2011).
Photographs & Video © Montres Breguet SA. Fair use
Article © BreguetBlog.com 2025. All rights reserved